We tried out an alternative way to create the same basic bodice piece last week using the tailoring mannequins, tape, and a piece of calico! First of all you mark out the centre front, back, side seam, shoulder seam, arm hole and bust line as well as the waist. This tape acts as i guide when using the fabric. The side slow shows each stage how i got to the final outcome. After the fabric pieces were finished you trace them onto pattern paper. This particular way of working and technique creates a more fitted look to the bodice but i would say i prefer working the other way, but was good to try it out and experiment! Creating the darts actually on the mannequin was beneficial as you could actually see the shape being created on the body rather than in a 2D pattern form.
Last year during Foundation we went to Paris for our educational trip to gain first hand research from museums, culture and the fashion for our projects. Was lucky enough to pass outside a Valentino show (unfortunately not inside), where there was people walking to and from the venue. It was a really good opportunity to take some ‘street style snaps’ and of course stare at the clothes!! Thought i’d post my photos to refer back to when looking at street style. The effortless style of all the looks stands out and i love the splashes of bright colour.
– All my own photographs
Last week we went to London to source some fabrics for our project and to identify ourselves as designers. We started of at looking at the ‘cheaper’ fabric shops at Sheppards Bush, but to be honest not all of them were that cheap! It was interesting though to compare each shop with prices and what actually is available. In Particular there was one shop which stood out to me just because of the wide range of fabrics as well as the help of the shop owner compared to the other places.
After a crazy hour or so asking for many swatches, colours and names of fabrics we decided to go to Soho and look at the expensive side of fabric! was excited to explore these shops as i have not done so before. My favourite shop was ‘The Cloth House’, instantly fell in love with the fabrics, trimmings, buttons and the interior of the shop is exactly how i would imagine a shop of mine to be like. It was like an adult sweet shop! i wanted everything..although prices were alot higher here i would be willing to pay a bit more for the quality!!
From Cloth House website
Fabric swatches sourced from london!
Names of fabric shops i visited and collected swatches: Fabric House Ltd, Orya Textiles, Classic Textiles, The Cloth House, Broadwick Silks London.
Just an update on my melting pot project, after collecting all my photographs from the museum and initial thoughts and ideas i brainstormed the main points and pathways that have potential to develop into a strong project. After the museum i knew i wanted to look at the Aztec culture, really liked the textured aztec print handbag in the ‘made for trade’ as well as the handcrafted elements from Jewellery pieces.
With the Aztec culture, the first path i thought i could go down is the idea of history behind the tribes, what they believed in, family influences etc. The second pathway was the typical idea of looking at aztec influence prints and patterns, using colour and shape as a primary focus and the third pathway which was my favourite and strongest idea was focusing of the area of handcrafted goods. Relating to the way the Aztec tribes handcrafted all their goods and services out of found objects and resources they had to hand. It was definitely important for me to understand a pathway to focus on otherwise the subject matter of the Aztec culture was too wide and would of got lost in all the research to explore. Now i have a primary focus, the melting pot will be much more structured and experimental.
After deciding on the handcrafted element (strongly relates to Pitt Rivers Photography) i was really excited to start designing in my sketchbook using my first hand sketches and mark making experiments to create unusual textures. To start of with here are some working drawings that could be developed into final illustrations inspired by my pen and ink sketch of a beaded and shell necklace. I quite like the alternative ‘sketchy’ style they have, even though i used fine liner and water colours. They feel more free and loose, playing around with the shapes rather than being a final functioning garment idea.
Illustration of shell & beaded necklace
Working sketches focusing on texture for possible design ideas
We have now had a few lessons in pattern cutting and i feel as if im getting use to it slowly day by day. At first it was a struggle to use the Pattern master in the correct way and getting use to be extremely accurate with measurements and drawings but practise makes perfect. What we have covered so far is the basic bodice block, moving/changing darts, creating panels and seams. I have had a small bit of experience with pattern cutting before but not to this extent of actually measuring and creating pieces myself. So i knew a fair bit before but it was hugely beneficial to go back to basics to ensure i knew everything.
With the Bodice pattern we actually pinned together as if it was being made, and pinned it to the mannequin to get a feel of how it would look and fit as a possible finished outcome. This was good to see the flat pattern piece actually become a 3D structure that would end up being a functioning garment.
Below are the photos i took in the studio of it on the mannequin. I am pleased with the pattern piece outcome as it fitted the mannequin very well so can now move on to the next stage without worrying if the pattern piece is the correct fit when sewing it in calico.
For my Evaluative 100 words on the ‘Made For Trade’ exhibiton, i decided to write it in a article style for a magazine such a Vogue. I’m fairly pleased with how it has turned out but not 100% sure with the layout. As it is only one hundred words its much more of a sample article rather than a full version if it was actually going to be published.This is how it looks at the moment:
First thought when entering the small but intriguing exhibition was the vast range of colours used on every wall. The collection of contemporary and historic pieces brought out the finest colour palettes inspired from the pieces origins such as Africa, America and Asia.
Summarising the exhibition on the whole it really captures the essence of networking, and making trade around the world. They way each country creates, and handcrafts a piece which then inspires other countries, villages onto other projects. Such as the brightly coloured bead from Asia transforms into a delicate patterned bracelet from Africa demonstrating that trade spreads influence.